The road from Saikazaki to Wakanoura is bordered on the left by a deep blue ocean. The houses are perched facing south on the hillside, basking in the bright sunlight. It somehow seems like another country. My destination is Taikobo, an old inn that has been in operation since before World War II. Once arrived, I discover photos of the sunsets decorating the walls of the lobby and dining room. "What this inn features in particular is the sunset over the sea. It is absolutely beautiful and you never get tire of looking at it," proudly tells the manager, Mr. Yamanaka.

There are other proud features as well: "Saikazaki is a historic fishing port. You can buy fresh seafood directly from the fishermen. For example, ashiaka prawns are toted as good tasting as kurama prawns. In fact, they are so good that a newspaper came to report on them." The ashiaka prawns are consumed locally for the most part, hence are a rare find that normally does not make it to market. They are not well known, but as sashimi or fried, they are unique. Also, come October, red sole is in season, which is either boiled or sauteed a la meunière. The subtle delicate flavor goes perfectly with butter and is a popular item every year.

Guest rooms and the bath look down over the sea. "Please try our charcoal-fired bath. We don't have the latest system, as we would like you to enjoy the family-like atmosphere," notes Mr. Yamanaka. Undeniably, the inn does not have a modern stylish look, but it put my mind at ease with a sense of nostalgia as if I had been here in my childhood. "Guests can relax in their rooms or the lobby, and we have a conference room which anyone may use," Mr. Yamanaka added.

Very close by are found Bandoko Garden with its views of the ocean on all sides and a scenic landscape that is great for walks to the chalky white Saikazaki Lighthouse, etc. And, down the steep stone steps in front of the hotel is the village of Saikazaki. I fully recommend a stroll to the harbor through the labyrinth of alleys and old homes, where you can have a friendly chat with the locals. The atmosphere of Kishu long ago still remains, so you indulge in the mood of a melancholic journey.